How did the
pull begin?
It was couple of years ago when on vacation with family at
Mussorie, I saw the signboard showing Gangotri to be at 100+ kms. From the top
of the hotel where we had stayed, Himalayan mountain ranges looked enchanting. I
thought I should go there sometime. A year before that natural disaster had struck
Kedarnath. And a year later, rains seemed to bring more harm but they did
damage at the other end of hill ranges, in Kashmir. After one more year, I had
to scrap the plan to visit Char Dham due to heavy rain forecast. It did rain
heavily. But the videos I had watched of those regions had created a calling in
me. I was prepared mentally fully and just waiting for the opportunistic
moment. And it came this year.
Not a good
start
A flight from Bangalore to Delhi, then another flight to Dehradun
landed us in Uttarakhand swiftly. But when we were at Delhi Airport, there was the
news of heavy rain and the road to Badarinath being blocked. And a whatsapp
image sent by my wife showed a newspaper article of cloud burst killing twenty
in the route we are supposed to travel. But there was no looking back as we had
already arrived close to where we wanted to go. We had to wait for couple of
hours in Dehradun to board a cab. Our journey on wheels began but we had to
return from two of the routes to where we started due to a land slide causing
traffic jam in one and a stream overflowing the bridge on another route. Third
route took us out of Dehradun and by the afternoon, we were stopped by a
massive landslide on the way to Yamunotri. An earth mover was doing a heroic act
to clear the way which took more than four hours. Not a good start but I
thought tomorrow is a new day. And Gods smiled at us.
Yamunotri
Next day morning, we began the 6 km up hill trek to Yamunotri. What
a place Yamuna has chosen to begin her journey. After walking up around 4 kms,
I had to slow down my pace and take frequent rests to catch up with breathing
needs. It almost took two hours for us to reach the temple from base. A bath at
Suraj Kund helped to let go of all the physical tireness and made us pleasant again.
It has been said in the religious texts that visit to this temple will make one
get rid of fear of death. I thought otherwise. Anyone scared of death would not
be willing to come here. Everything from nature’s cooperation to driver’s
carefulness to your physical strength should fall in place to make this happen.
But it is worth the effort. In the wild danger lies the uncommon beauty as we
call it ‘Rudra Ramaneeya’. After
getting down the hills, we stayed at Barkot, a sleepy town. And the views from
our hotel room appeared like a heaven unfolding in front of us. Floating white clouds
had covered the green mountains. Such a clean atmosphere!
Gangotri
Not much hardship was needed to reach Gangotri as the vehicles can
close to the temple. We dropped the baggage into the room, took a towel, walked
towards the river bank to take a dip in Bhagirathi River. Water was really cold,
probably less than 10 degree C. A quick dip in that ice cold water refreshed
me. Cold water bath though looks difficult in the beginning, become bearable as
the body adjusts and we begin to notice its magical power of putting one into a
good mood. Changing into new clothes, we entered the temple and we were othe
only visitors during those late afternoon hours. Then we went for shopping, there
are numerous small shops along the street selling idols, pooja materials etc. Our
taxi driver was a learned fellow and he had a guru living in Gangotri. Along
with him we went on to meet Swami Sundaranand. A mountaineer turned yogi, Swami
Sundaranand is already in his nineties, did not talk much. Photos of his in the
ashram gave us an idea of what he was like fifty years ago. As we returned to
room, sleep was waiting to take control on our bodies.
Kedarnath
Journey from Gangotri to Phata helipad took almost whole day. Stuffed
with Aloo Paraatha for breakfast on the way, it was long journey for us. And to
give company, Lata Mangeshkar was singing melodious songs for us through car
audio. As we reached the helipad, it was getting dark. We booked the tickets
for helicopter ride, took a room in the same campus and ordered food in nearby
canteen. I slept so well that I did not know how the night had passed. In the
morning next day, though we were ready early in the morning, we had to wait for
our turn. When it came, I got seat next to pilot in the helicopter. Before
getting in I was instructed not to pull any instruments or distract the pilot. It
was just eight minutes ride through the beautiful valley. I could see the long
walkway but I was mesmerized with the setting of beautiful hills. I remembered reading
how Himalayan mountains got formed as Indian sub-continent hit Asian plate. Those
formations were in front of my eyes. Reading provides with the information but
witnessing it through senses like touch, feel and climb is a different experience.
Again in this temple too, visitors were not too numerous. We had a good darshan
as there was no hurry to move out quickly. Coming outside, I started noticing
the set-up. The temple has tall Mountains in the backdrop which are snow
claded in the top. Those glaciers melt down to become the rivers Mandakini and
Saraswati. They both meet near by temple and travel downwards. The whole
atmosphere is cool and calm. Here one has to put no efforts to meditate as
there are no obstructions and the set-up is encouraging. After taking a look at
the surroundings, I felt like real god lies in that setting of nature. This
experience would have led Pandava’s to build the temple (if Mahabharata had
happened) and Adi Shankara to revive it.
The journey downward began on the horse. It was not a comfortable
experience so we decided to get down of horse and rather walk down. Three to four hours
of walk took us to Gaurikund. We got into cab again to move towards our next
destination. Chopta, a village where stayed during night, is said to be one of
places of interest to tourists. When he had reached there, it was completely
dark and we hardly could see what lied few feet away from us. So we decided to
retire for the day. I looked at my pedometer, it was showing past 20k steps. I
had never walked this much before. Next day morning, as we were short on time,
we decided to move forward rather than exploring Chopta.
Badarinath
It was late afternoon when we had arrived at Badarinath. Found a
room near to temple, unpacked our luggage to pick towels to take bath in hot
water kund. Water was steaming hot, we had to mix it with cold water in a
bucket to take bath. Next we headed to darshan. In all the temples we had
visited, this is where we could find sizeable number of travelers. After
darshan, we sat along with the group of people listening to bhajan. Two hours
passed like minutes. It was time to shut temple, we came out and headed to a
restaurant. Our journey was coming to an end. Our Char Dham darshan got over
though it started with lots of uncertainties.
Next day morning we got up up quite early, again we took bath in
kund, went into temple and spent couple of hours there. I had found peace in
sitting idle near to Adi Shankar’s idol in the temple premises. We got back to
room, checked out from room and informed our cab driver to drop us at
Rishikesh.
Rishikesh, Haridwar and B2B
On the return journey, at Devprayag, we got down to take some
pictures of two rivers – Bhagirathi and Alakananda meeting to become Ganga. Had
we time I wished we would have spent some time in this place. We reached
Rishikesh during twilight hours. We had climbed down from all those tall
mountains which had fascinatingly attracted me. Rishikesh appeared dull and
lacked all the soul comforting things which the hills offered. After visiting Jhula’s,
I bought few books authored by Sivananda, a yogi who lived and built a big
ashram in Rishikesh.
Next day we had arrived in Haridwar. We went to Har ki Paudi, took
dip in Ganga and waited till evening to watch picturesque Ganga Aarti. Indian civilization
has grown up on the banks of Ganga, though people were scattered over time,
they never forgot motherly Ganga. Go to any corner of India, you would find a
girl named Ganga. When people offer pooja any water source (including wells),
they call it Ganga Puja. Such is the influence of Ganga. Many Hindus believe it
is sacred to offer last riots at the banks of Ganga, this was the place they
were born and it is Ganga they want to merge with.
Taking overnight bus to Delhi and then by early morning flight we
were back in Bangalore.
Aftermath
The days we were in Char Dham was like life’s excitement at the
peak. Now the normal life looks so predictable and unexciting. It is like after
you count lakh rupees, counting thousand rupees does not seem exciting. But the
memory has become rich. My eyes had seen the most beautiful places of this
world. My mind had understood what it means by calm and serenity. My body had
learnt to cope with physical stress and cold environments. I may go there again
but before that I need to do what I learnt there, to walk more, to take cold
baths and to meditate.